My 4340 leaks transmission / hydraulic fluid from a hole in the bottom of the tranny case directly behind where it bolts up to the engine. This is a smooth drilled hole, I guess it is an intentional weep hole; It is not threaded like there was a plug in it. My question is; where is the fluid escaping? Is there a baffle in there between the clutch area and the tranny chamber? Would it be really a dumb idea to plug that weep hole? ie would it drench the clutch eventually and totally screw things up? I accept being a total dummy here, guys, so fire away. I won't get my feelings hurt.
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Zetor 4340 Hydraulic Fluid Leak in Tranny
- Thread starter blancoboy
- Start date
My 4340 leaks transmission / hydraulic fluid from a hole in the bottom of the tranny case directly behind where it bolts up to the engine. This is a smooth drilled hole, I guess it is an intentional weep hole; It is not threaded like there was a plug in it. My question is; where is the fluid escaping? Is there a baffle in there between the clutch area and the tranny chamber? Would it be really a dumb idea to plug that weep hole? ie would it drench the clutch eventually and totally screw things up? I accept being a total dummy here, guys, so fire away. I won't get my feelings hurt.
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Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Can be an engine crank seal, and a transmission input shaft seal. Dont plug it, an oil immersed dry clutch slips.
I have not done one on a tractor (yet).... but should be easy enough once you have split the tractor (that is the hard part unless you have i nice place to work on it) but first check the oil level is not over full as this will cause it to leak much worse!
also never park the tractor facing down hill.... for the same reason as above. unless you are loosing fluid at more than 1L per month i would just put up with it
on a level surface and not running the oil level should be well below the seal, so it should only leak when running, or facing down hill.
One more "quick fix" is to add some oil stop-leak (the thin runny stuff, not the thick gooey stuff) this works by softening and swelling the seal and letting it seal better on the shaft.
keeping in mind this will affect all the seals in the system (other than Teflon seals in some Rams)
it will take about a month to work, and will need to be re dosed at each oil change (or all the seals will go hard again and leak)
it worked on my old Ford 4000 that was leaking between the diff and the gearbox and running out the front as the level in the diff was supposed to be higher than the lavel in the gearbox on the ford........... that was 5 years ago and still holding oil
also never park the tractor facing down hill.... for the same reason as above. unless you are loosing fluid at more than 1L per month i would just put up with it
on a level surface and not running the oil level should be well below the seal, so it should only leak when running, or facing down hill.
One more "quick fix" is to add some oil stop-leak (the thin runny stuff, not the thick gooey stuff) this works by softening and swelling the seal and letting it seal better on the shaft.
keeping in mind this will affect all the seals in the system (other than Teflon seals in some Rams)
it will take about a month to work, and will need to be re dosed at each oil change (or all the seals will go hard again and leak)
it worked on my old Ford 4000 that was leaking between the diff and the gearbox and running out the front as the level in the diff was supposed to be higher than the lavel in the gearbox on the ford........... that was 5 years ago and still holding oil
Thank You Steve for the reply! The hyro oil runs out of the bottom of the bell housung as fast as i pour it in once the tractior is running, Do you think the oil is leaking from the input shaft seal or could it be deeper in the tranny??
The hyro oil runs out of the bottom of the bell housung as fast as i pour it in once the tractior is running, Do you think the oil is leaking from the input shaft seal or could it be deeper in the tranny?? unless there is a hole smashed inside the housing the only place it can be coming from is the input shaft seal, ......... but if it is leaking that bad it would suggest the front bearing has collapsed and not holding the shaft central in the seal, is it making a growling sound when driving under load in the lower gears? (high or low ratio, but not in top gear).
if it is the bearing then you will need to fix it asap before it chews all the teeth of the primary drive gear.
if it is the bearing then you will need to fix it asap before it chews all the teeth of the primary drive gear.
Thank you for the reply. It doest grind at all but since it started leaking hydro fuild it will kick out of forward or reverse gear occasionaly. Do you know if the input shaft seal and bearing you are refering to is one unit?
Sounds very possible, and yes if the seal housing also retains the front bearing the same problem will as occur as a collapsed bearing and Yes, jumping out of gear is a symptom of this, so you will need to split the tractor ASAP before you damage something.
Sorry
ps. while you have it separated also check the spigot bush in the back of the crankshaft.
and inspect the clutches ...... last thing you want is to fix the gearbox and 6 months later find the clutch is worn out and have to split the tractor again!
Hi,
It sounds like the needle bearings between the clutch shaft and the top shaft in the gearbox have disintegrated. It's quite a common problem if it's been run for a while with low oil level.
Mike
It sounds like the needle bearings between the clutch shaft and the top shaft in the gearbox have disintegrated. It's quite a common problem if it's been run for a while with low oil level.
Mike
Mike where is the needle bearing locate from the input shaft seal, I need all the suggestion i can get that way when i split the tractor apart I will know what to look for if its not the input shaft bearing. I have never done this befor but i cant afford to pay a zetor mechanic.
PS Thanks for the infor David
PS Thanks for the infor David
Mike is referring to the needle roller bearing inside the rear end of the input shaft, this would not make the shaft seal leak as the purpose of this bearing is to locate the top shaft in the gearbox, not locate the input shaft. ...... you will be able to check it if you have to replace the input bearing, as you will have the whole input shaft out (most likely).
I have not done one on a Zetor , (Lots of Mini's and Toyota Celica boxes) every box comes apart differently so you will need to refer to the manual ................. cross fingers it is just the seal, but if it is jumping out of gear it is likely the bearing as well.......
one other thing to check (if you have not already) check the bolts are tight between the engine and the gearbox, if this is not aligned correctly (should have dowels.... i assume) you will get the same problem....... remember the front bearing on the input shaft is the one in the back of the crankshaft! so the gbox and the crank must line up ..................
This was a common problem on old english Fords (Prefect, Zepher, Anglia, Cortina etc) .... first symptom was jumping out of top gear.
A mate of mine drove a 2L MkII Escort around so long with the bell housing bolts loose, the startermotor fell off! when i went to fix it there was only 1 bolt left in the bellhousing and yu could get 2 fingers in the gap!
I have not done one on a Zetor , (Lots of Mini's and Toyota Celica boxes) every box comes apart differently so you will need to refer to the manual ................. cross fingers it is just the seal, but if it is jumping out of gear it is likely the bearing as well.......
one other thing to check (if you have not already) check the bolts are tight between the engine and the gearbox, if this is not aligned correctly (should have dowels.... i assume) you will get the same problem....... remember the front bearing on the input shaft is the one in the back of the crankshaft! so the gbox and the crank must line up ..................
This was a common problem on old english Fords (Prefect, Zepher, Anglia, Cortina etc) .... first symptom was jumping out of top gear.
A mate of mine drove a 2L MkII Escort around so long with the bell housing bolts loose, the startermotor fell off! when i went to fix it there was only 1 bolt left in the bellhousing and yu could get 2 fingers in the gap!
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Machinery:
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1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
My forelast Volvo 440 TD once crashed a layshaft bearing, the rollers were pushed through the gearbox wall into the bellhousing, then the heads of the bolts that bolt the clutch against the flywheel pushed the rollers out of the bellhousing creating a shotgun effect.
We changed the tranny but apparently didnt tighten the bolts properly. when they ran loose, the part of the bellhousing with 3 of the four remaining bolts broke off. Sometimes the car would shudder because the clutch would be misaligned: I weldeda threaded rod to a tab, put that underneath the broken bolt, and welded a piece of pipe to another tab through which the threaded rod was put, then i tightened it as hard as i could: that kept me driving untill the APK (or MOT) was expired.
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