question Zetor 7211 steering wobble

Hi all,

looking for a little help.

My 7211 has a bit of steering wobble due to looseness at steering arm (wedge is loose) as per photo 1.

Also seems to be loose at joints from steering box to main link and power steering ram looks like needs bushings or washers to tighten (photo 2).

Steering box, power steering ram and front axle all tight.... just trivial parts to sort but donh know names or part numbers I need

Hello,

It looks like the feather key is broken, it needs to be replaced and preferably glued in with Loctide (only on the kingpin!). Under no circumstances should you continue driving like this, otherwise the steering arm and/or the kingpin will also have to be replaced.

Parts...


And:

Joachim said:

Hello,
View attachment 644
It looks like the feather key is broken, it needs to be replaced and preferably glued in with Loctide (only on the kingpin!). Under no circumstances should you continue driving like this, otherwise the steering arm and/or the kingpin will also have to be replaced.

Parts...
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And:
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have ordered new feather key but believe there may still be a little play when new one fitted - will update when done.

at the other side (under cab) there is excess play at joint circled in photo - have ordered new spacer rings and dust rubbers as per your parts diagrams - i hope this will work and make driving much easier!

There shouldn't be any game...

At the back between the fork there are 2 spacer sleeves over which a rubber seal is placed. These are located to the left and right of the GE 20 joint bearing installed in the control arm (cast part) (it is better to use a GE 20 UK 2RS here) and are tightened tightly using the hook nut and bolt so that there is no more play.

The spherical plain bearing itself must sit firmly in the control arm. At the factory it is pressed in and secured on both sides with center punches on the cast edge.
If the new joint bearing is not seated properly, the control arm must be warmed up (not glowing!) and then slowly allowed to cool down again. This shrinks the bearing seat. The new bearing should then fit tightly into the bearing seat. It is best to glue this bearing into the shaft hub using Loctide.

There may also be play in the eyes of the fork. In the end, the only thing that helps here is replacing the fork (also available as a replacement) or repairing it.

The auxiliary steering reacts sensitively to play - so it is extremely important to avoid any play if the steering is to work well.
Alternatively, if too many components are affected, you could also convert to fully hydraulic steering and then have significantly better and less maintenance steering. Prices here range from 700 to 1200 euros, depending on the system.

And take a look at this: