Hi, My Zetor 8011 has been doing very light work/no work in the past year. Yesterday I had to ride it in a slope with high RPM for about 2 hours. I checked the oil today; I noticed I lost lots of oil (below the dipstick min mark). I have added oil, now I noticed that oil heavily leaking from breathing tube at high RPM. I have searched the Forum, but could not find a definite answer on what I should do! Should I make her work harder? Please advise! Thank you
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Zetor 8011: Heavy oil leak from breathing tube!
- Thread starter bristol
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,020
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
When its loosing a liter per hour, i'm afraid its a broken piston ring, causing heavy blow-by....
If its a liter a day, it can be just a stuck piston ring: take out injectors, pour a can of DOT4 brake fluid over all 4 cylinders through the injector holes and let the tractor sit for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks put a rag over the engine and crank it with the starter motor, so any excess brake fluid will splash out into the rag so your engine wont hydrolock and bend a piston rod.
Then put injectors back in, and rinse the engine with water to clean off all spilled brake fluid (it eats not jut carbon deposits but also paint !)
then start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then stop the engine and change the oil (brake fluid will destruct all lubrication ability of the oil)
then start working the engine with the fresh oil change, and when its at operating temperature, hammer down untill red hot soot crumbs fly out the exhaust
the brake fluid will seep down along the pistons and rings and eat away any carbon deposits that might stick the rings and cause blow-by.
Make sure you use enough brake fluid to overflow the swirl chamber in the piston, otherwise it wont get to the rings. It doesnt hurt to use a lot, it will seep down in those 2 weeks.
If its a liter a day, it can be just a stuck piston ring: take out injectors, pour a can of DOT4 brake fluid over all 4 cylinders through the injector holes and let the tractor sit for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks put a rag over the engine and crank it with the starter motor, so any excess brake fluid will splash out into the rag so your engine wont hydrolock and bend a piston rod.
Then put injectors back in, and rinse the engine with water to clean off all spilled brake fluid (it eats not jut carbon deposits but also paint !)
then start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then stop the engine and change the oil (brake fluid will destruct all lubrication ability of the oil)
then start working the engine with the fresh oil change, and when its at operating temperature, hammer down untill red hot soot crumbs fly out the exhaust
the brake fluid will seep down along the pistons and rings and eat away any carbon deposits that might stick the rings and cause blow-by.
Make sure you use enough brake fluid to overflow the swirl chamber in the piston, otherwise it wont get to the rings. It doesnt hurt to use a lot, it will seep down in those 2 weeks.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,020
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
There is no substitute for good old brake fluid to solve carbon buildup, if you just let it seep along the rings for 2 weeks
Old guy (in his 70's, used to be service mechanic, later production chief and then CEO, an old dog that knows lots of tricks) tried an old Mercedes of the early 70s with Mos2 but it didnt have effect. I told him the brake fluid trick, and to let it stand for 2 weeks for maximum effect. When he did that, the engine had enough compression to start up on the starter, while 2 weeks before they tugged it all along the premises with the forklift and no sign of life... He said hat he, in his days as service engineer since 1957, he'd seen and used a lot of tricks, but he admitted that this was one of the more effective horseman's tricks he learned at his age, and that from a youngster
Old guy (in his 70's, used to be service mechanic, later production chief and then CEO, an old dog that knows lots of tricks) tried an old Mercedes of the early 70s with Mos2 but it didnt have effect. I told him the brake fluid trick, and to let it stand for 2 weeks for maximum effect. When he did that, the engine had enough compression to start up on the starter, while 2 weeks before they tugged it all along the premises with the forklift and no sign of life... He said hat he, in his days as service engineer since 1957, he'd seen and used a lot of tricks, but he admitted that this was one of the more effective horseman's tricks he learned at his age, and that from a youngster
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