Hello all. I have a 3320 that has been really hard to start. Once it starts and runs, it just dies like it ran out of fuel . It takes several tries to keep it running, but I have to idle it really high, which I don't like to do. It smokes like crazy from the crankcase tube and has hardly any power. Once it warms up, it's better but still smokes a lot. It has 1850 hrs on it and I bought it new. Maintenance has been kept up on it as well. Any ideas of where to start??
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3320 Smokes and No Power
- Thread starter deweyb
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Sounds like several problems combined. Can you be more specific ? Whats the colour of the smoke, how much air is there in the sediment bowl when the engine is running ?
First thought is a fuel line clogged, or a lift pump stuck.
About crankcase breather tube, did you ever work the engine ? You must hammer them a few times a year or the piston rings get stuck in their grooves.
First thought is a fuel line clogged, or a lift pump stuck.
About crankcase breather tube, did you ever work the engine ? You must hammer them a few times a year or the piston rings get stuck in their grooves.
Hey Renze, the smoke is grey and mine doesn't have a sediment bowl. It's been smoking for a while, but it just started being hard to start and run. It has been hammered a lot since this tractor is too small for my place. I bought it when I owned 5 acres, but I moved to 152 acres and never got a bigger tractor, only a bigger shredder.
Ok, I have to retract an earlier statement. I do have a sediment bowl behind my loader frame and it was filthy. If I've ever cleaned it, it was years ago and I don't remember. So, now that you know I'm a real bone head here's what I've done today. I cleaned the sediment bowl (need a new screen), but I'm not convinced on fixing the bleed screw. It is stripped out, but its not losing fuel . Its probably sucking air, is my guess.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Use plumbers tape, which they also use for pipe thread sealing. Then see where you go...
If that doesnt work, drill out and tap one size bigger.
Ok, I believe that my starting issue is fixed after a couple air leaks taken care of. Now, lets talk smoke. It is a grey smoke and blowing like a freight train from the crankcase tube. I'm watching it as I type, and ideling at 1300 rpm, I occasionally see some blue and drops of oil. I'm fixin to hook up the shredder and work it like a rented mule. I'll let ya know how it does. If you want me to look for anything specific, let me know. I'll check ocasionally while I'm cutting.
I wouldn't work it until you have isolated it to a cylinder. Crack the fuel lines off one by one to see which one makes the least difference to find which cylinder is causing the heavy breathing. Then pull the head off to check the cylinder. That much from the breather isn't right, no amount of work is going to repair broken rings or a scored bore, it'll likely only cause more damage.
I have a 7245 that locked up a few weeks back and was doing the same. No.1 piston had grabbed, my fault, fuel screwed up too far and asking it to do the work of a 100hp tractor.
I have a 7245 that locked up a few weeks back and was doing the same. No.1 piston had grabbed, my fault, fuel screwed up too far and asking it to do the work of a 100hp tractor.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2003
- Messages
- 4,021
- Location
- Laag Zuthem
- First name
- Renze
Machinery:
1976 5718
1978 5718 35kmh: Work in progress
1967 3011
Then you've screwed it up REALLY far ! It can do the work of a 100hp no problem, but in a lower gear. if you turn it open beyond the smoke opacity of a 1980's Ford, you're wasting fuel for just marginable gains of power, and risk burning a hole in your piston because the fuel splats against the piston instead of atomising.
When not severely overfueled and in good condition (valves, rings, injectors) these engines can take hard work all day.
Dewey how hot does your tractor run ? our 5245 was overheated once at the previous owner, which toasted pits in the valves. I ground the valves and valve seats, and got a new radiator of a 4 cylinder. Then it ran a lot cooler. with the standard 3 cylinder radiator (with fine maze cooler, outer dimensions the same) it ran up to 110 and you could allmost see right through the white hot exhaust pipe. with the better radiator it didnt get past 90 degrees and didnt get a cherry red exhaust manifold anymore.
No, substandard machining on pistons and liners I think. Other 3 cylinders had no signs of grabbing. It was no.1 also, so it should be the coolest, unless the thermostat was stuck closed and opened suddenly, though it had been running for 8hrs before it happened. Both piston and liner were B grade, but I have my doubts they were matched properly.
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