4340 clutch problem

[fbeningo]

The clutch when pushed in sometimes will not disengage. Seems to be intermittent. I've had to shut the tractor off to stop. Do I need to bleed the system?

 

[alan]

From the symptoms you describe yes you do need to bleed the system as there is most likely to be air in it.

 

[fbeningo]

Alan thanks again for the help . Do you have any tips about bleeding the clutch on the 4340? or is it pretty straight forward.

 

[alan]

It is straitforward but help from a assistant speeds the job up.
Use brake fluid DOT3 or DOT4

 

[fbeningo]

Alan, is the reservoir for the clutch the same as the brakes? if not where is the reservoir for the clutch located? I have searched for it and cannot seem to find it.

 

[alan]

Yes it shares the same reservoir

 

[fbeningo]

Thanks alot I've been beating my head on that one, and last night the clutch finally quit working completely and I had to put hay out and tonight I have to blow snow. Thank's to you I'll be able to do both.

 

[Renze]

The cause is probably a leaking master cylinder.
Zetor used to put PAL cylindrs on it, those were rubbish. Then they put it out to a Danish company, those werent much better.
Finally, they were statisfied with the quality of the cylinders supplied by Fragokov of Slovakia.
New cylinders will cost you about 70 Euro, and they are easy to change.

 

[fbeningo]

I bled the clutch yesterday afternoon and it went well. I will probably wait untill spring to change the master cylinder, if it holds out that long. Thanks to everyone for your help . You helped me more than the dealer where the tractor was purchased.

 

[Renze]

If you loosen the four bolts on each pedal, you can inspect the master cylinder. If it looks greasy all around, you're sure it's the bad boy.

 

[tagew]

You should also check the slavecylinder of clutch for leak. On my 6245 I had to change that one. Now I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my 6341 -98. It started to leak a little for about one year ago but in the last summer it was much better, but now when the weather was cold it was leaking a lot. Maybe the rubber seals did not like when it is about -10.

 

[Renze]

Yes slave cylinders may go leaking too, but the master cylinders would leak 8 out of 10 times..

 

[mack]

Does anyone know the part numbers for the new style master cylinders, and how do you tell what style I have? I replaced the guts about year ago and it started leaking again. I have a 3340-1996.

 

[Renze]

The style of build is exactly the same.

It's on the inside, the later Fragokov ones have a wear resistant surface coating on the liner surface.

On the outside, you can just see the letters in the casting.
PAL or Fragokov. I dont know the name of the Danish stuff..

 

[Saskatchewan]

Interesting:
It is -40C today here (it gets cold here in Canada) and I have just experienced the same problem with mine.
Reading that you have already done this, where would I find the bleed valve? I know where the reservoir is as I have added some fluid in the fall - now I know why the level was down.

 

[alan]

The bleed valve is on the slave cylinder

 

[Renze]

Be careful with the bleed valve, if you break it off, you will have to pull the final drives off.

 

[fbeningo]

On my 4340 you can access the slavecylinder through a panel on the floor just below the windshield washer reservoir. There are two bolts holding the panel in place. The cylinder is within arms reach. The bleeder is 9mm. It's a tight spot to get your hand and wrench into but I was able to get about 1/8 of a turn on the bleeder and it was sufficient. good luck.

 

[fbeningo]

Well I was wrong about the dealer where my tractor was puchased. I met him today for the first time, since I got the tractor second hand, and he was very helpful. But another question. I have had to bleed the clutch several times and even twice in an hour. I picked up a master cylinder today and started looking to replace the old one. I removed of the four bolts the top left without issue but the bottom left just seems to spin. Is there a nut on the back side I need to get a wrench on and if so how do I get to it? Do I have to remove the entire cover over the steering wheel? It is very cold here in Northern Michigan lately -10 to -20F and lots of snow 97" so far this winter. Any imput would help shorten my time wrenching in the cold. Thank You.

 

[gw]

NO. if you open the bonnet there is a large panel down the front of the cab. if you remove the four bolts (9-10mm) you should be able to slide the panel up. There may be another metal panel on the bonnet (just behind the reservoir) which you could remove if you cant see in.. You will see the clutch fluid pipes and the bolt/nut on the back of the slave cylinder your trying to get at!