4341 brake wheel cylinder

On a 4341 cab tractor what is the best way to replace the (left) wheel brake cylinder? It is leaking badly. The service manual describes it as the version 2 type (with the bleeder screw leaning to the rear). Do you have to remove the actuator assembly to get it out? How does one do that? Remove the seat and cab floor? Lift the cab? The service manual doesn't cover this. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi,

If you remove the wheel you can remove the cylinder without removing the actuator. Be careful not to twist the pipe when you undo it as they seize. Use a pipe spanner on it too, as they get rusted in.
Alternatively if you have problems the back of cab, seat and floor have to come out.

Mike

Hey Mike, thanks. I am trying to get everything lined up to do the job when the weather here in WV breaks. (I have only the one tractor and need to keep it going plowing snow, etc.) Another question - to get the cylinder out I guess one of the two arms on the top of the actuator has to come off and then the cylinder comes out sideways? I did get the brake line disconnected and the hold down bolt out of the cylinder, and I got a new cylinder. Thanks again.

I have a 6341 that had the same problem. I took the seat and cab bottom out and the cylinder is right there. I have 16.9/34 on mine with 800 pound of fluid in each. Also on the 6341 there is some kind of skirt that comes down behind the wheel that would make it hard to work on the cylinder from the side. Once you take the bottom out of the cab it is easy to change and bleed the cylinder. I worked in Wheeling 1982-84.

Mine was leaking on left side also. I clamped off that side to keep from losing brake fluid. I have a loader on, so I had the big brake on front.

And thank you too, First Sargent. I am about an hour down from Wheeling in Marshall County on Fish Creek. I started to take off the seat as an experiment. It is heavy! My wheels are 16.9 X 30 and only half full of fluid so that might be a better option for me. I am thinking I could just cut away that inner fender skirt you mention and afterward pop rivet in a replacement. When you took out the cab floor I guess that included the hand brake/pto clutch plate?

I took the seat and bottom plate out together. You are right it is heavy. I took it out the door, if I was doing it again I would take it out the back window. The brake and PTO clutch were not involved.
There was one small lever on the floor to the right of the seat that I had to remove.

a little off topic and id hate to hijack the thread here but would you guys mind giving me some feedback on your tractors? we currently have a 6911, 7045, 5211, 5245. we want to sell the 6911 and 7045 and invest in getting a 6341 or maybe a 6441 with mechanical reverser. mainly id like to ask for some honest opinions about the machines your operating and whether you think it would be a good investment for mixed farming (sheep farm).

Donny
I bought my 6341 new in 2003. It has loader. When I bought I convinced the dealer to trade wheels from a 7341, so I have 16.9/34 and 12.4/24 which I believe was a good thing. the tractor was nose heavy with the loader so I put 800 pounds of fluid in each rear. I don't think you should have to use 4x4 to move bales on dry ground. I also pull heavy loads of hay, so the extra weight has worked out well. The tractor/loader/loaded tires is probably heavy for general use, but it works for me. I tried pulling a 14 foot disc on tobacco ground, but it left tracks, had to go back to my JD 2630 with duals.
Early on had problems with clutch/brake cylinder seals, but I think these problems have been solved. Only other problem I had is with the AC, the compressor mounting bracket keeps breaking. It is broken now, and this time it took the compressor out too.

Hi Dave,

If you disconnect the handbrake cable then take the pin out with the split pin retaining it, you can get to the 13mm bolt which holds the cylinder in. The plate on the wing unbolts easily.

Mike

thanks sargeant

weve been running zetors for a long time and overall they have been a good tractor. The master cylinder seals gave us some headaches as well, but at 13euro there so cheap to repair/replace. lots of little things like cracked plastic and some electrical gremlins but the mechanicals have been good. weve found that their very easy to work on and have reasonable prices for parts. were mainly attracted to the x3x1 series due to it being the same platform with a lot of nice updates like the full hydrostatic steering, higher capacity hydraulic pump and better ergos in the operators platform. wouldnt mind a bit more power too with the 7341. how many hours have you racked up on yours so far?

Donnny:

I bought the 4341 with loader new in 2001, I think. About 2000 hours on it now. (I also had an old IH674 mainly for mowing up until recently.) I wanted the 4WD and cab. The Zetor was about 20% cheaper than equal Massey, New Holland and Valtra tractors at nearby dealers. I am happy with the Zetor. So far I have replaced a clutch slave cylinder, a voltage regulator in the alternator, and a locked up ac compressor. (I also replaced the cab windshield and roof because I rolled it, but I can't blame that on the tractor.) I have been getting parts and filters mail order from Ridgeway, good service.

Donnny:

I bought the 4341 with loader new in 2001, I think. About 2000 hours on it now. (I also had an old IH674 mainly for mowing up until recently.) I wanted the 4WD and cab. The Zetor was about 20% cheaper than equal Massey, New Holland and Valtra tractors at nearby dealers. I am happy with the Zetor. So far I have replaced a clutch slave cylinder, a voltage regulator in the alternator, and a locked up ac compressor. (I also replaced the cab windshield and roof because I rolled it, but I can't blame that on the tractor.) I have been getting parts and filters mail order from Ridgeway, good service.

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thanks for the info dave. im assuming your hour meter doesnt work, i guess they didnt fix that from the older models ours quit at about the same time.