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5511 brake bands and shoes

another other trick is (you need 2 people) get one person to push and hold the peddles down hard, and then you undo the bleed nipple and the fluid and compressed air will shoot out, do the nipple up again before releasing the peddle.
 
I had a similar problem on a 4718 after replacing the master and the slave cylinders, totally impossible to bleed no matter if I pushed the pedal slowly, quick light or hard. Finally I loosened the tube to the equaliser and all the air came out.
That was the trick for me.
Hazze

 
Spent a few hours working on the brakes at the weekend. Tried these methods of bleeding with no evidence of air coming out and no improvement. I also checked the clearance between the pushrods and master cylinders which was ok. I did notice however that there are no return springs for the pedals but they do come back fully without these. At first i could not see how springs could be fitted but after looking at the original hand book the springs are fitted vertically not horizontal like the 3545. I cant see why this would cause my problem but will order springs along with seal kits for cylinder and equalizer.
 
I did notice however that there are no return springs for the pedals but they do come back fully without these.
I cant see why this would cause my problem but will order springs along with seal kits for cylinder and equalizer.

If the pedal does not return properly for any reason, the port will not open in the master cylinder to let more fluid in, this will cause poor pedal pressure.
Also, just a thought..... if you still have air in the system..... say trapped in the equalizer valve, the pressure of the compressed air may return the pedal without the help of the return spring. ;)
 
Fitted a replacement equalizer today and now have both side brakes working.
 
Thanks for the feedback, i suspect i will be doing the same once i get my front end back together.
 

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