• Hello.
    In order to download file attachments or view image attachments in full size, you must be registered/logged in and have a level 2 member account.
    No worry, its all for free!
    For more details - click here.

8111 lights burn out ignation switch

padowado

New member
Level 2
Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
3
First name
padowado
any one see this before...when i use the dim or headights on my 8111 the key gets warm and then blows the ignation switch.... THANKS in advance
 
Sounds like a direct short. but the fuse should blow first?
are the correct size fuses in the fusebox? no bent nails/ cigarette paper etc!
if it does it on both main and dim i would suspect the rear or side lights or cables going to them (seeing as there are separate wires to main and dim lamps, but a common wire to the rear/side).
check for trapped/ shorted wires especially where the cables go through holes in the body work etc.
damaged lights or lights full of water?

i dont know if the setup is similar to my 6711, if it is the harness to each of the rear lights joins under the front of the seat. you could unplug one side at a time to eliminate the harnesses one at a time
 
Thanks grumpy.... I forgot to say that the dim or head lights would be on for 1 or 2 hours before it
blows the ignation...... i have the tractor since it
was 3 years old its now 23 years old the key was getting hot from the first day when lights are on a neighbour said it might need a relay it mite be a surge in power....TANX
 
You didn't say if your tractor has work lights as well as the headlights, if it has it is probable that the amperage through the switch is too high in the long term since the work lights go through the key switch before their own switches, we had to fit relays for the cab roof lights on our 8045 which had the deluxe cab roof, as in the pic to the left, but the tractors without cab lights were OK
 
Fit a relay! ...... for all Headlamps and spot lamps, use heavy gauge wire feed and you will eliminate the excess current through the switch and the lights will be much brighter!
fit the relay close to the lights if possible and run a power wire either direct from the battery (optional line fuse) or take power off the back of the fuse box ........if there is a live circuit, but I'm not sure if there is or not on the 8111.

Was a common problem on some cars in the 60's that had the headlights and Horns through the ignition switch, ..... now all cars use a relay!

PS you will need a High beam relay and a Dip relay :)
 
[quotepost=3]
Thanks grumpy.... I forgot to say that the dim or head lights would be on for 1 or 2 hours before it
blows the ignation......

in that case , drawing too much current so relay(s) required as suggested.
Simple and cheap enough to do, just google image search for 'wiring a headlamp relay' for 1001 diagrams, and you should be able to pick up the relays and suitable gauge cable at any autoparts store.
 
LED spot lamps need a much less current and last well. There are various types on ebay with the best prices being ex China. Look under LED spotlights or floodlights.

Select a spotlight for a beam or floodlight for a wider angle area lighting.

White or cool white [ about 6000K+ colour temperature ] give better illumination than warm white.

Some are fully encased and waterproof but Iv'e run just LED bulbs in rain without problems. A 10 watt cool white LED spotlamp will give out as much light as a 45 watt incandescent bulb so you use under a quarter of the current.
Great for when you need light without the motor running.
An alternative approach to lighting with low current drain.


 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top