Coolant or anti freeze

Since the winter is here, which is the best to use in 7341, coolant or anti freeze. Do 7341 need a special coolant like other tractors (john deere) or will a glycol antifreeze and water mix do?
As a result of the previous owner not putting antifreeze in the tractor I have replaced the o rings,liners and pistons because water was getting into the oil. Now the water pump is leaking.
Do the proxima/forterra use antifreeze or coolant?
I would like to read your opinions on the subject.
Lenny

Hi. Coolant is just antifreeze + anti-corrosive additive. Both are available as either a concentrate or ready to use dilution. Note. Ready t use antifreeze is sometimes also refered to as coolant.

Both will work but check the specs on the coolant or antifreeze to check it will go down to the sort of sub zero temp you expect in your part of the world.
The ones labeled "Long life" are best, as they do not drop out forming a sludge after 18 months.
Alloy engines and alloy radiators need special coolant as the anti corossive additive is different to the additive for cast iron and copper. There are also mixed metal additives available that work in all systems.

Nope, Zetor engines do not have design flaws like JD common rail engines that require costly Cool-Gard liquid to prevent galvanic corrosion (that eats away the water cooling jacket of the injectors)
Its something i dont like about Deere: they exclude you of warranty if you dont use their Cool-Guard, while they rip you off with 2 times the price for it, at the same time. This way a user gets billed for what really is a JD design flaw.

demineralised water + anti freeze = coolant.

tap water contains some minerals because it isnt distilled to get pure water, but the elements in antifreeze neutralize it enough.

What makes you think using plain water caused water in the oil ? were there cavitation pinpoints in the liners ?
If not, a lack of fluid in general is a more likely cause of molten O rings that let water leak into the crankcase.

Just a note on using demineralised water. It is more corossive than tap water. The demineralised water will quickly remineralise its self with your engine as the supply of the minerals!
Much better to use potable tap water as long as it is properly treated and pH nutralised (idealy buffered to pH 8 rather than pH7) . However if the tap water in your town comes from a bore rather than from a dam it may be too acidic and very high in mineral content. It is high mineral contente than can react with the antifreeze and precipitate out as sludge.

Even cast iron engines need some anticorossive in the coolant to stop acidic rust. But all you need with cast iron is .
0.1% sodium nitrite (not nitrate)
However this is not suitable for alloy

Yes, even human beings can become ill when drinking too much water, when the mineral content of the water is so low that it absorbs the minerals from the body...

Anyways, we're making things a bit complicated for this subject: for cast iron blocks tap water with a little anti freeze is ok.

I have now replaced the water pump which cost 190 incl vat. I have filled the rad with a 50:50 mix of anti freeze and tap water.
when I replaced the liners they were very rusty with pitting in some of them, there was only 1900 hrs on the engine. The old water pump was also rusty inside also.
What I dont understand is why would anybody not put the correct antifreeze in an engine?? 5 litres only costs 20 here in Ireland.
Some farmers idea of maintenance is fixing it when it breaks.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Ps: Routine maintenance is cheaper that replacing parts.

I have now replaced the water pump which cost 190 incl vat. I have filled the rad with a 50:50 mix of anti freeze and tap water.
when I replaced the liners they were very rusty with pitting in some of them, there was only 1900 hrs on the engine. The old water pump was also rusty inside also.
What I dont understand is why would anybody not put the correct antifreeze in an engine?? 5 litres only costs 20 here in Ireland.
Some farmers idea of maintenance is fixing it when it breaks.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Ps: Routine maintenance is cheaper that replacing parts.

Click to expand...

Yes, it annoys me so much! I spent days cleaning out the cooling system on mine, as the previous owner had only used water. Finally got it clean, and I also fitted a coolant recovery system to it to eliminate any air, and avoid top ups. The only time I can get it to overheat now is running the big baler with the radiator blocked with hay on a 40 degree day

Hello,

have you a picture from your "... coolant recovery system to it to eliminate any air, and avoid top ups." ?

I found it interesting...

Hello,

have you a picture from your "... coolant recovery system to it to eliminate any air, and avoid top ups." ?

I found it interesting...

Click to expand...

I think he is describing an expantion tank. Every car since the 80's has one. Does not have to be fancy. A plastic milk bottle will work.
Do need a top sealing radiator cap though. Otherwise it wont suck the coolant back in.

Yes, that is the one, though technically an expansion tank is pressurised, as in most late model cars. This is just the recovery style that catches overflow, and sucks it back in when it cools. The kit was available from the local auto parts store. I had to get a new neck soldered in the radiator, as Zetor use a long style neck, all recovery style systems use a short neck. I had the radiator in the shop getting cleaned anyway, cost very little compared to what I've saved in coolant! It get very hot here in Australia, and with this tractor spending most of it's time on balers, it's hard to keep hay from the radiator (I would love an auto reversing fan!). But since I have added the recovery tank, it has only got warm once, as it was extremely clogged with hay.
I will try and get a pic tomorrow!

Oh, I also added an 89 deg thermostat, to let the engine run cleaner. It stays bang on 89 now no matter the load on it (It works hard too, running a 6x4 baler, it knocks it around when baling high density 6 foot bales!) Couldn't be happier with the cooling system now! Only thing I need to do now is add a hyd cooler in front of the rad, running 75 lpm through the system on a hot day opening and closing the tailgate makes the oil real HOT