hello Hi guys - Zetor 5211

[MariusP]

Thanks for having me here
I’m Marius and am currently working on a zet or 5211


I’ve been fighting a clutch rebuilt that has left me stupefied
I’ve replaced everything from master to slave cylinder with complete new clutch on this 5211
For some reason I have no clutch with gears grinding.
I’ve set the clutch fingers as per the manual se attac pic. Also the little brake as per spec.
If anyone have any idea what I should check before splitting the tractor again, I’d really appreciate some advise

 

[Joachim]

Hello and welcome Marius!

First question: Are you sure you installed the drive clutch disc the right way round? A common mistake. It must be installed with the longer side of the drive pin facing the engine.
If it points backward toward the transmission instead, the clutch disc will bulge and no longer disengage properly. The clutch disc is then usually scrap, and a new one will have to be installed.



Hier is a little better image for clutch settings I made a time ago:

On the right, you can also see a small tool that you can quickly build yourself to simplify adjusting the clutch release levers.
It's also important that the three release levers have a maximum deviation of 0.1 mm from each other so that the automatic transmission can disengage smoothly and parallel.

 

[MariusP]

Thank you very much for the advice and especially the drawings.
Though I was pretty sure I did fit the drive clutch the right way around - I’m now not so sure
I’m gonna split it and will let you know.
Thanks for your support Joachim

lol I actually pray that’s the problem

 

[Joachim]

Did you also replace the pilot bearing? It should always be replaced when working on the clutch.

 

[MariusP]

Yes I’ve replaced it as well

As an update
I’ve split the tractor again and confirmed that the primary clutch was facing the engine with the long side.
I will take some pictures and post then later today.

 

[Joachim]

Okay, then the following points come to mind:
- Does the drive clutch drive pin slip easily on the transmission input shaft? Was clutch grease used there?
- Is there any wear on the transmission input shaft that is preventing the drive clutch disc from slipping easily?

If everything mentioned so far is really OK and the settings are correct, then the tractor should be able to disengage and engage the clutch normally, I think.

 

[MariusP]

Thanks for bringing that up I’m gonna Doyle check. What I have noticed though is that the pressure plate sits very snug in the flywheel housing gaps on the side. There are 3 of them

 

[Joachim]

Well, it shouldn't have much play there either. During assembly, you should apply a little ceramic paste to the friction surfaces as a permanent lubricant. In a pinch, copper paste will also work.

The pressure plate shouldn't be jammed in the flywheel, though.

Did you install an original automatic transmission or one from a third-party manufacturer like Korurs (Polish)?

 

[MariusP]

I agree
Ive cleaned it up and used son copper slip as a lube.
I’ve checked the splines and the drive clutch was facing was a bit sticky I worked it loose by hand and slides a bit better. I’m at a point where everything is checked and double checked.
I’ve disassembled the clutch assembly and took some photos I’ll ad them here.
Maybe you spot something.
My only observation is that the drive clutch is a different type than the original as ion the photo.
But they measure all the same
I want to change the gear oil too while we at it.
Why type of oil do you recommend and I believe this serves as fluid for the inner hydraulics too?
Then one last question please. On the drawing that you so kindly supplied me with on the tool to set the clutch fingers - I can not make out the measurements on the drawing. Could you please send me a rough sketch please

On your question regarding the clutch kit. It’s a aftermarket product and not the original company is called ASAP parts in on Amazon
It compares well with the one I removed

Once again I want to thank you on all the support so far.

 

[MariusP]

Don’t worry about the drawing sir I’ve located it in my gallery. It is clear enough.
Thank you

 

[Joachim]

My only observation is that the drive clutch is a different type than the original as ion the photo.
But they measure all the same

The old one is a ceramic clutch – the lining lasts longer, but the flywheel and pressure plate suffer significantly more. The new one is the CZ clutch disc from Raybestos CZ – basically the second best option after the LUK/Schaeffler clutch disc, which has a better clutch lining that's less prone to judder than the one from Raybestos CZ. But both work and fit.

Why type of oil do you recommend and I believe this serves as fluid for the inner hydraulics too?

Zetor normally recommends an UTTO SAE 80W-90 API GL4 oil (not GL5). It's certainly a bit warmer in Texas than in Central Europe, so perhaps an UTTO SAE 80W-100 API GL4 or similar, which doesn't become so thin at higher temperatures, would be more suitable.

See also:

https://zetorworld.com/threads/zetor-fluids-like-oils-coolant-brake-fluid.5980/

Then one last question please. On the drawing that you so kindly supplied me with on the tool to set the clutch fingers - I can not make out the measurements on the drawing. Could you please send me a rough sketch please

Have you looked at the photo in full size? Like, click on it on your computer or tap on your phone? Because I can read it easily, and I have rather poor eyesight (I'm farsighted).
Here it is even larger...

click ot tap it.

On your question regarding the clutch kit. It’s a aftermarket product and not the original company is called ASAP parts in on Amazon
It compares well with the one I removed

Judging by the color of the pressure plate, I think it is the Polish automatic clutch from Korurs (manufacturer/importer of third-party spare parts for Ursus and Zetor)