Leaking brake fluid on 5211

[donte]

Hi Guys...brake fluid is leaking on my 5211, it looks to be coming from behind the brake pedals. I thought it might be the master cylinder and wanted to do a quick visual check. I pulled the inspection cover under the steering wheel but cannot see the m/c. I also tried to pull the rest of the cover, but appears the pedals need to be removed in order to do this.

Am I on the right track, or is there an easier way to see m/c? Thanks in advance. Don

 

[forterra9641]

open up your bonnet... there under the front window behind the engine there is a panel screved on with four bolts one in each corner....then you will get a relativly good accsess to the master cylinders. Good luck

 

[dave_peters]

If you just want to see which master cylinder is leaking, just shine a torch onto the end of the cylinders that you can just see in front of the pedals. the pedals themselves come off easily, just unhook the springs, remove the 6mm bolt through the pivot shaft, screw a bolt into the threaded hole in the end of the shaft and pull.
The rest of the contributors don't agree with me, but I have found it satisfactory to pull off the rubber dirt cap, remove the circlip off the end of the cylinder without taking it off,pull out the piston and run a small snap-on cylinder hone through the bore and just replacing the seals with a Zetor replacement kit.
Evryone else recons to change the whole cylinder though, by removing the said front cab panel.

 

[donte]

Thanks to both of you for your excellent replies. I'm on my way out to the shed to see if this is my problem. I'll post the results later....Don

 

[donte]

I'm not finding the panel behind the engine being held with 4 bolts. My unit is cab-less....maybe that's the difference. I do find a fairly large flexible panel that is riveted in place on the back side of the instrument panel pedestal, but not enough room to drill the rivets out. I suppose the next step is to remove the pedals and try to see behind them. Any other ideas? Thanks guys and Happy Trails. Don

 

[dave_peters]

Can't help any more ,Don, in UK I have never seen a cabless 52..
but there must be some acess to the pedal housing without resorting to drilling surely.

 

[donte]

Thanks Dave

 

[Renze]

I replaced both masters from the front on our 5245
i just loosened the bolts that hold the pedal brackets, and pulled them out to the front. When keeping a little tension on the brake lines you can pull them out far enough to replace them with a little fiddling.

 

[donte]

Hi Renze, Thanks for your input...I was able to get a peep at the end of the m/c and will use your technique to replace the leaking one. Take care, Don

 

[dourobob]

Hi
I don't want to hijack this thread but ... I have a 5245 that has just started to give me problems with the brakes. The brake pedal was feeling very soft and spongy. I checked the brake fluid level and it was down - the reservoir seemed to be empty. I topped up the reservoir but the brakes are still very soft.

I need some advice on the steps to take now. What do I check first? Where might this fluid have gone? How do I get the brakes back up? (They were working fine 3-4 days ago).

We are fast coming in to snowblower season and I need to travel on a county road so brakes are important.

Any advice appreciated.

dourobob

 

[ixer0]

Hi

Your fluid could be leaking at the brake or clutch cyls as they use the same reservoir. Check the clutch slave cyl on the L/H side of the clutch housing first.

If you have no signs of leaks at the 3 master cyls or clutch then the leak is either a pipe or the wheel cyls inside the rear axle portals. To get your pedals back temporarily, you'll need to bleed the brakes at the bleed screws inside the top of the rear axle each side. They are 9mm and you ideally need a box spanner or long socket.

Good luck

Mike

 

[dourobob]

Thanks ixer0

I went to look and there was a lot of snow and mud packed in at the top of the rear axles.

Does anyone have a picture or a sketch from a manual that will show exactly where I need to be looking. I don't want to start hammering and bashing at the frozen stuff and break the bleeder screw (or anything else).

Also, do I get at these bleeder screws from the back of the tractor or ???

Thanks for any help .

Bob

 

[ixer0]

Hi

You get access to the bleed screws from the rear of the tractor but you will not be able to see them. If you look on top of the axle, just inside where the main cab fixing bolt is you will see a pipe going into a 2" hole in the top of the axle. The B/Screw is in the same hole in the axle beside the brake pipe. You will be able to touch the end of it if you feel in there. Once you've loosened it (With a 9mm box spanner) make sure you push a pipe onto the nipple so the fluid doesn't run onto the brake shoes.

Mike

 

[donte]

Hi guys, just wanted to post the results of my leak and how I managed to get to the master cylinders. Mine is the cab-less 5211 and I exposed both brake and clutch m/c by removing the instrument panel, the steering bracket and their main console. This gave me easy access to replace the leaking right brake m/c. I gained access to the right wheel cylinder bleed screw by removing the hydralic control panel to the right of the seat. The left cylinder bleed screw wasn't hard to reach from the rear. No leaks now, but right brake is still very weak.....probably need to bleed some more air out. I hope this will help any newbies like me out there. Hope you all have a safe and healthy Holiday season. Happy Trails, Don

 

[dourobob]

Report on progress.

I was able to bleed my brakes successfully today with the help of my more mechanically inclined neighbour.

The hardest part of the job was getting the rubber caps off the bleed screws. The second hardest part was getting a socket on the bleed screw under the hydro lift controls.

No obvious leaks but, I will keep a close eye on the reservoir and determine how quickly the level drops (I think I last topped it up about 3 years ago).

Thanks for the help.

Bob