Squidgy brakes

I think I posted about brake bleeding before but I can't find the thread now, so apologies if this causes anyone a spot of deja vu...

The brakes on my 7341 have been binding. Having lubed, sprayed and bashed the various parts, it's now rolling nicely again instead of stopping dead when I dip the clutch. Nice though this is, it has exposed the fact that the brakes are very spongy when they're not binding (quite a shock as I came to the end of my first attempt to see how well it coasts with a bit of speed!).

I bled the brake system, following the manuals as well as I could understand them, and I got quite a bit of air out of one of the rears. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to have improved matters much, if at all. On first stab the pedal still gives little resistance. If I release and re-apply, it's suddenly firm and responsive. I'm assuming the pedal should be firm like that all the time. Any suggestions where I should look for a problem (or is this squidginess in fact normal)?

the first model that came out of the super series approx from 1997 to about 1999 had bad brake slave cylinders they were replaced by another type of cylinder and a conversion kit. the dodgy cylinders acted just as you describe in your post.

<sigh> One day I'll have a problem that turns out to be simple, quick and cheap to resolve Thanks for the info though.

Mine's a 2000-registered 7341 Super - 4WD, braked front wheels (I guess they all go together but so many things seem to be optional that I'm not sure). Is there a simple way that I can tell whether it's affected by the flaw? Also, any idea how difficult and expensive the replacement would be as a DIY job?

Steve.

Hi Steve

Have you tried adjusting the rear brakes and did you find all 7 bleed screws ? Don't leave them too tight when you adjust them as they will bind on the road and warp the discs. If yours has been binding, you may already have this problem depending on how long they have been doing it. Brake discs for the wet brakes are not cheap. It's a fairly straightforward job to do.

Mike

Hi Mike.
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Have you tried adjusting the rear brakes
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Uh... No, I'm afraid I didn't realise they were adjustable I assumed that they were effectively self-adjusting like car brakes. Guess I'll have to delve into the manuals some more.

and did you find all 7 bleed screws ?

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SEVEN??? No, I only counted five! I tried to follow the manual but didn't seem very clear to me. I don't have a braked trailer but I got the impression from the manual that the 'trailer air brake system' needed doing first regardless. I found a component where the book says the Trailer Control Valve should be (between the fuel tank and rear axle on the RHS). The book describes two bleed valves on that though, and mine only seemed to have one. Different model, perhaps - or the wrong part entirely? Anyway, I bled it using one pedal only. Then I moved on to the rear wheels, and I bled them with pedals unlatched and the other side held partly open as per instructions. Then I did the front wheels with the pedals latched together.

The manual also mentions a 'hydraulic trailer brake system', but didn't seem to indicate that it needed doing as a prerequsite for the wheel brakes so I didn't touch that. Perhaps that was a mistake?

If yours has been binding, you may already have this problem [warping] depending on how long they have been doing it. Brake discs for the wet brakes are not cheap.

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Oh dear Hopefully I'll have got away with it, given that the tractor gets very little use.

Thanks for the input.

Steve.

(PS: I have replied to a PM that you sent me ages ago and I've only just spotted)

Hi Steve

Re bleed screws - There were 2 on the air valve on the last one I did but maybe they've changed to one as you found. There is a small bleed screw (7mm) on the trailer brake valve, if you have one fitted. You need air pumped upon your air system to bleed the front brakes. I'd leave the brake adjusters a bit looser than the book recommends. Adjust the handbrake after the foot brakes.

Mike

Thanks Mike, I'll take a look at that when I next get a chance. Regarding the mismatch of the bleed nipples on the trailer air valve, the component I found (right side, between the tank and the rear axle) is certainly something to do with the braking system but I could easily have mis-identified it. Is there anything else it could be?

You need air pumped upon your air system to bleed the front brakes

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Yes, so I discovered - I don't remember seeing it mentioned in the manual.