Zetor 6211 - Coolant Temperature Gauge

[diyfarmer]

Yes Hazze Morrie this correct, it would get about 40C when engine is hot.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Ordered a thermostat but they don't have the thermostat online. I have brown gasket paper , can I make up my own . Will it hold or is there anything special about the proper one. Seems just paper in the pictures !

Sidejob, replacing the fuel filter in the 6211. Seen there's a primary and secondary fuel filter -

Do these look correct for the 6211 -

Primary - ZETOR 2511 - 7711 UR1 SERIES PRIMARY FUEL FILTER - https://www.johnconaty.com/111-54-931207-FFF5197-p/5656.htm

Secondary - ZETOR 2511 - 7711 UR1 SERIES SECONDARY FUEL FILTER - https://www.johnconaty.com/931209-FFF0823-p/5657.htm

Element filter ? - ZETOR FORTERRA MAJOR PROXIMA UR I UR III SERIES FUEL FILTER - https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR-FORTERRA-MAJOR-PROXIMA-FUEL-FILTER-931260-p/5659.htm

Thanks
Eoghan

 

[diyfarmer]

Did you see this one ZETOR FORTERRA UR SERIES THERMOSTAT 70011316 - https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR-FORTERRA-UR-SERIES-THERMOSTAT-70011316-p/5434.htm

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Did you see this one ZETOR FORTERRA UR SERIES THERMOSTAT 70011316 - https://www.johnconaty.com/ZETOR-FORTERRA-UR-SERIES-THERMOSTAT-70011316-p/5434.htm

Sorry my fault meant to say the don't have the gasket online . I'm getting that exact thermostat from there but it doesn't come with the thermostat gasket. So can I make my own etc ( see last message re gasket and fuel filters ) thanks

 

[diyfarmer]

The gasket might come away when you open the housing but you could use a small line of silicon around the edge.

About the fuel filters, I looked at them all they should be right. There's a primary and a secondary filter, though when we used to service our 7245, we used to the same filter into both of them.

The last one is a type that would fit my HSX.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

The gasket might come away when you open the housing but you could use a small line of silicon around the edge.

About the fuel filters, I looked at them all they should be right. There's a primary and a secondary filter, though when we used to service our 7245, we used to the same filter into both of them.

The last one is a type that would fit my HSX.

Hopefully but I might use the gasket paper and make one and use gasket silicone I have ( listed for use for water pumps and thermostat housings). That should hold wouldn't you think - can't see anything special about the thermostat gasket that's can be got -https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Engine-Thermostat-Gaskets/Thermostat-Gasket/64444

Okay sounds good about the filters. I noticed the glass filter for diesel was full with brown dirt so I cleaned it and 5/6 days later full again - so I thought fuel filter change will help - would I be right @diy-farmer .

Also it there much to changing the filters - could you get be me a rough idea of what to do ?
Thanks

 

[diyfarmer]

That gasket looks the job OK.

If the glass vessel is full gunk clean it and fills up again quickly with a gunk again must be coming out of either the filters or all the way from the tank. You should be changing the filters every 300 hours or once a year. The tank might needs cleaning after 10 years.

To change them, first turn off the diesel at the tap stick a bucket underneath open the bolt on the first filter screw of the cover, empty the old diesel and filter into your bucket and rub the inside of the housing bowl with a rag, then do the same with the other one.

To fit the new ones, pop in the new filter into the housing bowl and fill up 3/4 full with clean diesel then screw it back on, then do the same with the other one but don't retighten to the last, turn on the tap and pump up the diesel with the hand primer and when the diesel starts coming out of the filter bolt tighten them up to last.
To bleed them open the banjo bolt at the second filter and pump the primer till diesel is flying out then tighten the banjo and try start the engine.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

That gasket looks the job OK.

If the glass vessel is full gunk clean it and fills up again quickly with a gunk again must be coming out of either the filters or all the way from the tank. You should be changing the filters every 300 hours or once a year. The tank might needs cleaning after 10 years.

To change them, first turn off the diesel at the tap stick a bucket underneath open the bolt on the first filter screw of the cover, empty the old diesel and filter into your bucket and rub the inside of the housing bowl with a rag, then do the same with the other one.

To fit the new ones, pop in the new filter into the housing bowl and fill up 3/4 full with clean diesel then screw it back on, then do the same with the other one but don't retighten to the last, turn on the tap and pump up the diesel with the hand primer and when the diesel starts coming out of the filter bolt tighten them up to last.
To bleed them open the banjo bolt at the second filter and pump the primer till diesel is flying out then tighten the banjo and try start the engine.

Have ordered stuff of malpasonline few days ago but they didn't have gasket in stock so I'll make one myself with the paper I have and use gasket silicone.

Thanks that'll help me a lot, where is the tap to turn off diesel, ( near filter ?) I only leave the 2nd filter hand tight until I pump the primer or do I leave both loose?
Where is the banjo bolt on the filter ?

Also they are labelled and as you look at them they are 2 and 1 from left to right . Is 1 primary 2 secondary. Sorry about all the questions

Thanks very much diy farmer

 

[diyfarmer]

where is the tap to turn off diesel, ( near filter ?) I only leave the 2nd filter hand tight until I pump the primer or do I leave both loose?
Where is the banjo bolt on the filter ?
Also they are labelled and as you look at them they are 2 and 1 from left to right . Is 1 primary 2 secondary.

Is there not a tap over the glass vessel. I have not worked on a tractor like yours since the early 90's so maybe my memory is being mixed up by all the Crystals I worked on.

I would leave both of them hand tight first, then pump the diesel when the first one is overflowing tighten it and do the same with the second one.

The banjo bolt is on the filter housing where it comes out heading for the injector pump, open that for bleeding the system rather than the bleeding screws, it's a much faster way of doing it, only bit messy. The filter closest to the diesel tank would be the primary.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Is there not a tap over the glass vessel. I have not worked on a tractor like yours since the early 90's so maybe my memory is being mixed up by all the Crystals I worked on.

I would leave both of them hand tight first, then pump the diesel when the first one is overflowing tighten it and do the same with the second one.

The banjo bolt is on the filter housing where it comes out heading for the injector pump, open that for bleeding the system rather than the bleeding screws, it's a much faster way of doing it, only bit messy. The filter closest to the diesel tank would be the primary.

Thanks diy-farmer.

Changed over the fuel filters there, was very easy after your tips - thanks diy farmer. Will get round to thermostat soon !

 

[diyfarmer]

Thank you, you have nothing to fear when your changing the filters only be careful not to over tighten banjo bolts and screws as they are made of soft stuff.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Thank you, you have nothing to fear when your changing the filters only be careful not to over tighten banjo bolts and screws as they are made of soft stuff.

Thanks.

Fuel in filter 1 filter 2 fuel out.


Surely fuel filter 1 is primary and 2 is secondary altogether two is on the nearer side of the fuel tank.

Fuel hardly goes into secondary (fine ) filter first then coarse filter ?

 

[diyfarmer]

Surely fuel filter 1 is primary and 2 is secondary altogether two is on the nearer side of the fuel tank.

Not unless the pipe coming out of the tank is bolted to filter housing at the secondary side.

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Not unless the pipe coming out of the tank is bolted to filter housing at the secondary side.

Sorry I don't understand.

There's a pipe ( I'll call it pipe 1 ) coming in on left of the housing and goes through filter 1 and into filter 2 then out on pipe with banjo ( I'd assume to injector )

There's arrows on filter housing showing fuel goes from left to right ( ie in pipe 1 accross two filters and out to injector )

So I'd assume filter 1 is primary ( take out most of crap ) and then goes into secondary - takes of finer crap then out to injector

 

[diyfarmer]

Yes that is exactly the way it is supposed to work. So that's all fine

 

[eoghan_nevin]

Yes that is exactly the way it is supposed to work. So that's all fine

That's great, just said I'd make sure. Thanks

Changed over the fuel filters there, was very easy after your tips - thanks diy farmer. Will get round to thermostat soon !

Fitted new thermostat and it's reading perfect on gauge. Gradually moves all the way up to just shy of 80C (ie the edge of green ) . Did notice that although there is only 1 cable going from thermostat housing to gauge (ie sendor cable) it didn't move until I have a temporary earth to the outside of the sensor itself. Got up to 75C and when I disconnect the temporary earth needle goes straight down to zero. So I've a permanent earth in it now and works fine . Once again thanks.


New question for ye. Engine oil light stays on all the time recently ( on the warning light cluster ) Oil levels are fine and sensor seemed visually okay when I took it out but not really sure how to check sensor. Sender cable from sensor is fine.

Seen somewhere that if I take of sensor wire and light stays on then the wire is shorting to ground somewhere, did this and light goes off when sender wire it taken on sensor so wire is fine and not being shorted.

 

[diyfarmer]

Fitted new thermostat and it's reading perfect on gauge. Gradually moves all the way up to just shy of 80C (ie the edge of green ) .Got up to 75C and when I disconnect the temporary earth needle goes straight down to zero. So I've a permanent earth in it now and works fine . Once again thanks.

It's good that you got it going now, funny that the manual doesn't a need for an earth at the sensor, but sure if it's working like it's supposed to, that's the main thing

New question for ye. Engine oil light stays on all the time recently ( on the warning light cluster ) Oil levels are fine and sensor seemed visually okay when I took it out but not really sure how to check sensor. Sender cable from sensor is fine.

You should really start a new thread for this problem for on the forum for other user to follow as it's now different what you started.

If the engine oil light is on all the time means, engine oil is low. oil pressure is low. sometimes if oil wasn't been changed in a long time. Again it can an electric problem, which you might find it's the sensor

 

[eoghan_nevin]

It's good that you got it going now, funny that the manual doesn't a need for an earth at the sensor, but sure if it's working like it's supposed to, that's the main thing

Yeah strange alright, gauge has 12V at it so there's an earth there. And when you said earlier doesn't need earth I figured that was right as there's no "proper place for an earth to attach" but needle drops back to zero if temp earth was disconnected but hey it's working

New question for ye. Engine oil light stays on all the time recently ( on the warning light cluster ) Oil levels are fine and sensor seemed visually okay when I took it out but not really sure how to check sensor. Sender cable from sensor is fine.

If the engine oil light is on all the time means, engine oil is low. oil pressure is low. sometimes if oil wasn't been changed in a long time. Again it can an electric problem, which you might find it's the sensor

If the engine oil light is on all the time means, engine oil is low. oil pressure is low. sometimes if oil wasn't been changed in a long time. Again it can an electric problem, which you might find it's the sensor

Got around to put in a new oil pressure sensor. Oil pressure light is off now. Thanks