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Which to buy - 7745 or 7211 or 6320 or 5320 or Ford 6610?

misterz

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First name
MisterZ
Hi,
I'm in market for a late 1980s early 1990s Zetor . I'm moving from a Ford 5000 that is only operating on 3 cylinders.
We only need a tractor for general farm yard work as well as cutting and turning hay. We feeding round bales of silage in the winter and so I'm looking at getting one with a loader.

It's all Fords around us and so getting major repairs done locally might be problematic for a Zetor.

Are there any known issues with the models : 7745 or 7211 or 6320 or 5320?
Can they all handle a front loader?

I'm looking at a 23 year old 7745 at the moment. It's 4WD might be more than we would need but would be ok for a heavy loader.
Is this model reliable and what should I look out for when buying?

Which Zetor model is most equivalent to a Ford 6610?
This is the only other tractor I'm looking at but its 5 years older than the 7745 Zetor. Its around the same price but had a new engine installed 5 years ago.

The thing I like about Zetors is their fuel efficiency. They used to be cheap in I r eland but not any more.
Both tractors I'm looking at are about 8000 with loaders.
I'm not sure which to go for and I know you all would be biased towards Zetors but I would appreciate any (unbiased) advice/information to help me decide

Thanks
Z



 
which 6610 ? spaghetti shift ? horrible. Cant remember what ive driven 10 years ago, i think it was a 6610 gen II which was the only Ford i liked to drive. The contractor i worked back then had 6700, 7710 8210 7840 and 8240 but the 6610 II was the only thing decent.

Fords of that generation have generally a poor parts backup because the Italians arent interested in customer service unless it brings them big money. Same as Case, CNH doesnt support them as good as Case supported older IH products.

Service backup depends on your local dealer offcourse, but for 20 year old stuff i'd say Zetor has better and cheaper parts availability, resulting in their high prices on the used markets.


When using it with a loader, you wont regret 4wd. Especially this overkill Zetor axle, the same hubs and bearings were used on the 10540 and still had strength to spare. In fact when using a front loader professionally, 4wd is a must ! My loader used to be on my fathers 5245 but when my brother took over the farm and bought an old Liebherr loader, i bought myself a 5718 and put the loader on that, but i do miss 4wd...

handling a loader, 2wd Zetor axles arent any less than the Ford or any other make 2wd axle, but the 4wd Zetor axle is more than any other 4wd axle in that class...
 
i would defineatly buy a zetor before a ford 6610. ive driven 6610 in my old workplace. horrible gearchanges,lazy engines, hopeless hydraulicks. i currently own a 6340 wich is is basically the same as the 7745, iwe also owned a 7745 so i know them too. but the 6340 has a loader and i use it for feeding round bales and it functions exellent. a 7745 should take on any task you have on Your farm, and carry them out exellent :)
 
10 Series Fords were all great tractors just stay away from those 40 series, especially the SLE versions with the terrible wet disc clutch packs and the very sensitive powershift gearbox! Ford parts are expensive though and hard to find for older models, wich is why many went green in contrast with zetor which has cheap parts easily avalible over the internet if your not scared of doing a repair at home.
 
Renze, Forterra, Jeetze ... thanks for your info and advice

How do I know the generation of a 6610... is it based on the year of manufacture? And what is a spaghetti shift?
Weve never had any trouble getting parts for a Ford both second hand and new parts.
Why are the Italians involved?
Ive got 4 full garage mechanics within 10 miles who could dismantle and fix any ford but would not have any experience of Zetors... for that Id have to go at least 50 miles. Although if I bought the 7745 Id get the workshop manual and expect a local to be able to follow it if needed....would that be feasible?
What do you mean many went green in contrast with zetor ?

People say that the 1980s fords like the 6610 have thin engine block walls that become porous because of the metal used at the time(UK steel strike so they used stuff from India) was not great and the way that ford just took the block of a 5000 and put a bigger engine in it.
Ive heard that zetors are soft ... would this be true?

What should I look out for on the 7745?
I want a list of tests so I know the tractor is OK
Would it be easy on diesel?
Has it got a wet or dry clutch and which is easier to maintain?
Is it as prone to the brake issues that other zetors are?

When stopped in neutral and putting it in gear you have to pump the clutch a couple of times to be able to get it in gear (without grinding) ...why is this? Is it something to be worried about?

Thanks again
 
How do I know the generation of a 6610... is it based on the year of manufacture? And what is a spaghetti shift?
if it has a roman two II on the side its a generation two. in the generation 3 it became the 6410 if i recall right. A friends father had a 6610 I and it was horrible, and so was the spaghetti shift (column mounted with double neutral) on the 6610 i drove at the contractor. the 6610 gen II was the best ford ive driven comfort and handling wise, but it was hard on fuel.

Why are the Italians involved?
CNH belongs to Fiat group. They arent lazy, they just dont care about the smaller customer, just like other Italian OEM suppliers like Cobo, my first hand experience. When you need parts for older tractors, they arent eager either, experience of others.
People say that the 1980s fords like the 6610 have thin engine block walls that become porous because of the metal used at the time(UK steel strike so they used stuff from India) was not great and the way that ford just took the block of a 5000 and put a bigger engine in it.
Ive heard that zetors are soft ... would this be true?
The Ford problem was a design issue, the block generated a vibration that increased by resonance untill air bubbles in the coolant imploded, thereby ripping particles out of the casting. Over time it could eat pinholes through the cylinder walls.

Has it got a wet or dry clutch and which is easier to maintain?
Is it as prone to the brake issues that other zetors are?
Dry clutch and dry brakes. It has the 310mm cerametallic clutch which is good. The brakes are the same dry disks as on the 8011, so not as troublesome as the drums on the smaller models.

When stopped in neutral and putting it in gear you have to pump the clutch a couple of times to be able to get it in gear (without grinding) ...why is this? Is it something to be worried about?
the master clutch cylinder needs replacing. costs about 70 euro and 2 hours of work for a novice.


 
Zetor 7711 engine a great engine goes in to another level with a turbo but well above the ford Weakest part is every 3000 hours the thermostat housing would begin to fail and leave water out guess the coolant had no corrosion inhibitor if there a straight crankcase breather pipe on it change it u type while it came with a centrifugal oil filter by checking that one would know when last serviced.
Front axle is very strong mud guards are essential as water and mud thrown up on to cab and the metal diesel tank rusts in no time from this you see it straight away once tank is over half full.
Clutch is very good while the transmission two top gears are only synchro one thing to watch out for is one can lock the tractor up in two gears which can turn out to be very expensive there is a plate that can be fitted to prevent this and it is a must.
The hydraulics are two speed low speed for eco and normal work while high speed for loader
Rear axle no problems and can handle a lot more power just make sure what ever trailer or tanker work one is at that the brakes on the trailer or tanker are good as to be honest the 7745 brakes are only for stopping the tractor and nothing else .

The ford gen 111 was the best cab was ahead of zetor while you also get a clutchless gear but 4wd models fitted with zf axles the hubs will fail as they are too small while load monitor can also fail need a ford mechanic to right this.
At the end of the day the zetor can really work performs like a 100 hp tractor while the ford looks better then it goes.
 
Hi Renze and international xl
Thank you both for some great information!
I just have some last questions from the info the internationl xl gave...

Zetor 7711 engine a great engine goes in to another level with a turbo but well above the ford
The one I'm looking at is a turbo .. can this be troublesome ... not sure what extra the turbo offers

Weakest part is every 3000 hours the thermostat housing would begin to fail and leave water out guess the coolant had no corrosion inhibitor if there a straight crankcase breather pipe on it change it u type while it came with a centrifugal oil filter by checking that one would know when last serviced.
Is it much of a job to replace the thermostat housing or crankscase breather pipe?

the transmission two top gears are only synchro
Sorry but what does this mean and how is this different to whats in other tractors?

one thing to watch out for is one can lock the tractor up in two gears which can turn out to be very expensive there is a plate that can be fitted to prevent this and it is a must.
Where is this plate and how to install it... is it a big job to do?

The hydraulics are two speed low speed for eco and normal work while high speed for loader...
I'd be putting a loader on this tractor but dont have one yet so how would I test the hydraulics and their capability to handle a loader without a loader attached?

Thanks again guys



 
Hi Renze and international xl
Thank you both for some great information!
I just have some last questions from the info the internationl xl gave...

Zetor 7711 engine a great engine goes in to another level with a turbo but well above the ford
The one I'm looking at is a turbo .. can this be troublesome ... not sure what extra the turbo offers

Weakest part is every 3000 hours the thermostat housing would begin to fail and leave water out guess the coolant had no corrosion inhibitor if there a straight crankcase breather pipe on it change it u type while it came with a centrifugal oil filter by checking that one would know when last serviced.
Is it much of a job to replace the thermostat housing or crankscase breather pipe?

the transmission two top gears are only synchro
Sorry but what does this mean and how is this different to whats in other tractors?

one thing to watch out for is one can lock the tractor up in two gears which can turn out to be very expensive there is a plate that can be fitted to prevent this and it is a must.
Where is this plate and how to install it... is it a big job to do?

The hydraulics are two speed low speed for eco and normal work while high speed for loader...
I'd be putting a loader on this tractor but dont have one yet so how would I test the hydraulics and their capability to handle a loader without a loader attached?

Thanks again guys

The 7745 turbo is 81hp as opposed to 73hp for naturally aspirated motor. the turbos are as good as any other tractor but its life greatly depends on the cleanliness of the oil. i have not personally had a problem with the thermostat on our x2xx series zetors but they are easily repaired/replaced. the breather pipe is also easily changed/modified but also cant say ive had troubles with mine (has not even crossed my mind that it could be a problem) .

Only 4th and 5th gears are synchronized which means that switching between 1st 2nd and 3rd should be done through double clutching, but it is possible to clutch once as you get a feel for the engine rpms when changing gears. the shifting method in these tractors is not a great design. the shift lever functions on a pivot which in turn engages the desired gear through linear followers at the end of the shift shaft. as these parts wear down the shifter becomes "loose" and will sometimes not disengage the currently selected gear as you shift into neutral (this typically happens when operators rush their shifts). this issue has happened to me several times but it is very noticeable when it does happen as you will immediately notice an "awkward feel" at the shifter and luckily the next gear will be very difficult to engage as a result. the mechanism is accessed pretty much by loosening a few bolts at the base of the shift lever on the cab floor (easy job). typically i would just take this apart and pop the linear actuator back to its neutral possition (5 minutes). i am also not aware of the plating mod but it probobly has to do with taking up any play in the mechanism.

According to the manual the hydraulic pump is 32l/min. there is a splitter valve located on the right hand side of the cab at the base of the hydraulic control levers. this diverts hydraulic flow from the inner circuit (three point hitch) to the outer circuit (SCV). if you can get a flow meter and tap into the scv to test the flow and a pressure gauge you can test the hydraulics professionally but it is typically enough to observe the reaction, speed and strength of the three point hitch. Zetors are real nice in that you can disengage the hydraulic pump when you dont need them or to assist in very cold starts. its good practice to do this as they will last a long time.

in our experience zetors in general have been as good a tractor as the rest of them and i wouldnt hesitate to get another one. in fact were looking to replace our 6911 and 7045 for a 7341 with reverser
 
7745 turbo is a great tractor, lots of power in a lightweight package, fuel efficiency at its best.

i do not recommend operating a loader with the PTO/oil pump at 1000rpm, and neither does the operators manual . I did use it on the 5245 because it had the optional fast reverse (2 and 3 opposed in the shift pattern and reverse the same speed as 3rd forward which was a bit faster than the oil pump could lift) so i had the bucket lifted at spreader height while backing out of the 40cm deep manure silo carefully, at no more than 1200 engine rpm.

You wont have any problem with rotting thermostat housings if you just use glycol coolant instead of water. We never had a problem in 25 years...
 
Thanks Donny2stroke and Renze... great information.

We were going to replace our Ford 5000 that we were told had one bad cylinder but after we took off the head we found that it has a damaged head gasktet. So we will replace that and seen then if its OK .... half disappointed that there is now probably no need to change our tractor.

Thanks again and I'll be back if I do get the chance to change to Zetor

 

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